Day 1: Historic Downtown, Jellybean Row, Signal Hill, Local Eats, and getting Screeched-In.
If you’re coming from Montreal like me, you will be arriving around 1:00 pm at St. John’s Airport. I 100% recommend renting a car to get around the city because public transportation is not reliable. Also, distances are quite large, so you definitely need a car. I used Expedia to rent a car for the whole trip. Be aware that since everyone is renting, sometimes there are delays. In my case I had to wait about an hour because the car wasn’t ready.
Once you get your car, go downtown to visit Jellybean Row and its picturesque houses. You’ll immediately feel the sound and the breeze of the Atlantic coast. Make sure to walk around the other streets and not just Victoria Street, and pay attention to details like their mailboxes or Goostav the townie goose. This icon is placed just outside a yellow house and its owners dressed it depending on the season or holidays. I found it pretty cool and fun.
Afterward, you can check-in at your hotel to freshen up and grab some food before heading out to enjoy the sunset at Signal Hill. I had a Denny’s connected to my hotel, so I grabbed something quick, nothing especial, just to avoid wasting the whole afternoon at a restaurant. Signal Hill is one of the best spots to enjoy the sunset in St. John’s. In my case, I got a weather alert that lasted for almost two days. St. John’s is the windiest and foggiest city in Canada, so be prepared! This didn’t stop me, while I wouldn’t suggest trying any hiking or putting your life at risk, I found Signal Hill so gorgeous under the fog.
For dinner, head back downtown to try Ches’s Famous Fish & Chips. This restaurant serves traditional Newfoundland-style battered Atlantic cod, hand-cut fries and many other seafood dishes. Don’t hesitate to add their malt vinegar to the fish, it tastes delicious. The lovely waitress taught me this, and it’s considered a classic must-have.
After dinner, you can go to Christian’s Pub, a family-run business, to get Screech-In. This is a fun traditional ceremony in Newfoundland and Labrador. You basically take a shot of Newfoundland Screech (a dark rum with 40% ABV). Then, you eat a piece of fried bologna called the “Newfoundland steak”. After that, you kiss a cod ( a real codfish on the lips) and recite the Oath ” Deed I is, me old cock, and long may your big job draw!”. In the end, you receive an official certificate leaving as an honorary local. I love getting to know the culture of every city I visit, so I find this super fun. You have to book a spot online and pay the fee. You might find it a bit pricey but believe me, it’s totally worth it for the fun and to experience the legendary hospitality of Newfoundlanders.
Just a heads up: Some of the links in this post are affiliate links. If you use them to book a tour, I’ll earn a small commission to support my work at zero extra cost to you. I only recommend experiences I truly love!
Day 2. The best breakfast in the city at Bagel Café, Water Street, souvenir shopping, the Basilica, Quidi Vidi Village, the lake, and brewery.
On day two you’ll want to wake up early to try a true St. John’s breakfast experience at Bagel Café. The atmosphere is cozy, the décor is eclectic, the staff is very friendly, the food is delicious and the portions are massive. Make sure to arrive early to beat the lines and grab the best spot. I chose one of the big hardy breakfast, the one named Cabot Tower. This one comes with fish cakes, beans, eggs, hash browns and toast. I literally ate the leftovers the next day for breakfast hahaha.. I can assure you it was huge.
To help with digestion, take a walk along Water Street and enjoy the colorful murals and stores. My favorite souvenir store is Downhome Shoppe & gallery. In this two-story store, you can find all the souvenirs you need, from magnets, to necklace, earrings, clothing and home décor. I bought several whale-themed earrings and a matching necklace, to remember this amazing trip. If you have time and enjoy visiting churches, head to the Basilica of St. John the Baptist, a beautiful sacred place with a gorgeous vaulted ceiling, stained glass, and a great view of the Narrows.
In the afternoon, head over to visit Quidi Vidi, a historic and picturesque fishing village. Depending on the season, you can grab an ice cream at the Wharf at Quidi Vidi. This is a seasonal outdoor space where you can find food trucks, the Quidi Vidi Sweet Spot for ice cream and the Beer Garden to enjoy some drinks and live music.
I highly recommend visiting Quidi Vidi Brewery for lunch and trying all the delicious drinks they have to offer. A absolute must-try is their Iceberg Beer (which you can also find in different bars and restaurant around the city), It’s actually brewed with real 10,000 to 25,000-year-old harvested glacial iceberg water. Just in case you didn’t know, every year around May, icebergs drift past the coast, and you can actually spot them from the shore or on a boat tour.
Make sure to eat on their lovely terrace overlooking the harbor. I wasn’t super hungry, so I ordered the Seafood Chowder, and it was delicious. Besides, the iceberg beer, I also tried their blackcurrant sour beer. You can order a beer flight to try a variety of flavors, as they have so many great options it’s impossible to try them all. If you’re lucky like me, you’ll get to enjoy your meal with live music playing.
If you still have energy, take a stroll around Quidi Vidi Lake. Nearby, you’ll also find the Sugarloaf Path, an 8.8 km one-way hike along the East Coast Trail. I couldn’t hike it because of the heavy fog, but it seems to be a fantastic trail with amazing views, where you can even spot icebergs during the season.
For dinner, if you’re a sushi lover, I recommend checking out Sushi Island for fresh sushi and an a fun experience. Here, miniature bullet-train on tracks replace traditional servers to bring the food to your table. I love the concept and the food was delicious. I actually repeated this same spot for two nights in a row.
Day 3. Sunrise at Cape Spear, Signal Hill, Cabot Tower, North Head Trail, The Battery, and a Boat Tour for icebergs, whales or puffins.
On day 3, it feels almost like an insult how early you have to wake up if you want to be the first to see the sunrise in North America. Cape Spear is the easternmost point of the continent. It also features the oldest surviving lighthouse in the province. If you can, stay to visit the house where the lightkeeper and his family lived in the 19th century. Don’t make the same mistake as most visitors who leave right after the sunrise. Take your time to wander around the World War II fortification ruins, or just enjoy nature, if you’re lucky you might spot some birds or even whales.
For breakfast, Cape Spear Café opens at 9:00 am. You can take the traditional fish cakes, a delicious seafood chowder, sandwiches or their famous moose fart treats for your sweet tooth. Afterward, it’s time to head over Signal Hill National Historic Site. Cabot Tower stands at the highest point of the hill, and you can walk inside and climb to the observation deck at the top. If you arrive before noon, you can experience the Noon Day Gun tradition, where a cannon is fired everyday at 12:00 pm.
After this, if your legs are ready for plenty of stairs, head to the trailhead of the North Head Trail. It’s a 3.5 km loop, but it’s strenuous and challenging, with a 500-foot elevation gain. Here you will find the most stunning views of the city, the Atlantic Ocean, the cliffs, the Battery and the Narrows. Again, if you’re lucky you might spot icebergs, whales, or seabirds. This path also includes a very narrow cliffside walkway (about a foot wide) where you have to hold onto a metal chain anchored into the rock. If it’s raining, windy, or foggy, I strongly recommend avoiding this section.
Once you pass the chain section, just a few meters ahead you’ll find The Battery, a stunning and colorful neighborhood. These houses were built on the rocky slopes so fishermen could get easy access to their boats. This iconic area was featured by National Geographic when naming St. John’s as one of the world’s top 10 oceanfront cities in 2015. Once you pass the Battery, continue along the path. It can be a bit confusing since the path runs right through the neighborhood but, just follow the signs. A few minutes later you’ll arrive to the pond where you can view Gibbet Hill. Across the street, you’ll find the Johnson Geo Centre and the dog sculptures (the Newfoundland dog and Labrador retriever), don’t forget to take a picture with them.
Then, head to the visitor center to get a delicious hot chocolate or ice cream from Newfoundland Chocolate Company. This time I chose the Explorer Hot Chocolate and I wasn’t disappointed at all. They have a very extensive menu for all tastes.
If you have time head back to your hotel to freshen up and get ready for the afternoon adventure. On this afternoon, you can take a 2-hour boat tour. Be aware that you should visit in May or early-June if you want to spot icebergs. Whales are best seen from June to Mid-August, and puffins until September, I went hoping to spot some whales but they have already left. However, I still enjoyed the sheer beauty of this place, the Atlantic Ocean, a million-year-old coastline, and I even spotted a Bald Eagle, a Sunfish (Mola Mola) and so many cute puffins.
I booked my boat tour with O’Brien’s. They depart from Bay Bulls towards Witless Bay Ecological Reserve (home to North America’s largest Atlantic Puffin colony). It was a lovely tour, our guide was super knowledgeable , played traditional music, and even invited people to get screech-in on board.
Day 4. Hiking the East Coast Trail and sunset at Signal Hill.
If you’re in St. John’s, you have to try at least one of the many East Coast Trails. There are 25 path sections covering 336 km of North America’s easternmost coastline. You can choose one depending on what you’d like to see (beaches, cliffs, waterfalls, rivers, etc.) and your hiking experience.
Keep in mind that these trails are point-to-point (linear), so they don’t loop, although all the paths are connected by community walks. This is crucial when planning your hike. You can leave your car at the trailhead or the end of the path and take a local taxi back ( always call the taxi company ahead to make sure service is available). If you’re traveling in a group you can leave one car at each end of the trail. The trails are completely free for hikers, so not permits are required. Dogs are always welcomed on a leash. And remember to Leave No Trace!
Here are 4 different paths closed to St. John’s that offer gorgeous views:
a) Stiles Cove Path: This is a 15.1 km trail with moderate difficulty that takes about 5 to 7 hours to complete. It goes from Pouch Cove to Flatrock, and here you’ll find several waterfalls, sea caves, coastal cliffs views, heath, and meadows.
b) Beaches Path: A 7.1 km trail from Witless Bay to Mobile. It’s an easy path that takes around 2 to 3 hours to complete. Here you’ll enjoy a peaceful walk along the coastline, passing through woods, meadows and heath. You can also relax at several cobblestone beaches. Be aware that this trail is subject to erosion, so never get too close to the edge.
c) Sugarloaf Path: This is a nice 8.8 km trail that goes from Logy Bay to Quidi Vidi Village. It’s a moderate-to-difficult trail that takes about 3 to 5 hours. From here, you will enjoy 360-degree views of St. John’s and Quidi Vidi, as well as coastline views, a pond, woods, a river, and impressive rock formations.
d) Cape Spear Path: a 15.4km trail from Blackhead to Maddox Cover. It’s labeled as moderate in difficulty and can be done in 5 to 7 hours. Along the walk, you’ll see cliffs, Cabot Tower, Cape Spear and its lighthouse, rivers, waterfalls, woods, meadows and of course, stunning ocean views.
e) Cobblers Path: A 5 km path from Outer Cove to Logy Bay that can be completed in 2 to 3 hours. Its level of difficulty is moderate. This is a very popular path where you’ll catch amazing views from Torbay Point and Red Cliff, the ruins of a Cold War radar station and the remains of a World War II battery. If you’re visiting during summer, you’ll likely spot whales from the trail.
I 100 % recommend checking weather alerts to avoid bad conditions. Believe me, if it’s foggy, you won’t see anything all day. Also, start early, and buy or download an offline map of the trail, as cell service is not always available. Always pack your 10 hiking essentials and have fun!
If you still have energy and haven’t had the chance to watch the sunset at Signal Hill, head straight over there! Thank me later! You’ll see one of the most gorgeous sunsets of your life.
Day 5. The Rooms, The Battery Lookout, Newfoundland Chocolate Company, and departure.
Before heading to the airport, if your flight is late in the afternoon, make sure to check out The Rooms, the cultural heart of St. John’s. The building’s unique design was inspired by traditional fishing sheds, and it sits right on the hill overlooking the city. I recommend arriving early and going directly to their café to have breakfast and enjoy the best panoramic lookout in St. John’s. From the top-floor glass atrium, you get a breathtaking, elevated view of the entire harbor, Signal Hill, and the colorful streets below. Inside you’ll also find a mix of local art and natural history exhibitions, including a giant squid! plus moving historical displays about the island’s heritage.
I know we already saw The Battery up close, but if you want to treat yourself to the the amazing views you can see in magazines and brochures, head toward Fort Amherst. The Battery Village lookout is right along the way. Make a stop, take in the scenery, watch the boats and massive cruise ships pass by, listen to the seagulls, and be thankful for the chance to discover such magical place in beautiful Canada. If you still have time, continue all the way to Fort Amherst for even more views, another lighthouse, dramatic cliffs, and the stunning blue ocean.
Then, you can’t leave St. Johns without trying the ice cream from Newfoundland Chocolate Company. If you had hot chocolate back on Day 3, now it’s the time to try their ice cream. Luckily, there is a little store at the airport right after passing bag check, so you can grab a treat before leaving. I tried the salted caramel ice cream and it was really yummy.
Quick Details:
Hotel: I stayed at the Sandman Signature Hotel because I didn’t want to stay right downtown and deal with parking issues. This hotel has everything: an indoor pool, a hot tub, parking, 2 restaurants (Moxies and Denny’s) a bar, free coffee, tea and fruit-infused water in the lobby, plus an in-room fridge and microwave. I booked through Expedia. Check this link to see the hotel and do your booking.
Car: As I mentioned earlier, you definitely need to rent a car to get around St. John’s. I used Expedia to book my car as well, and I even got the option to rent the exact car model I drive back home, so there was not learning curve. But really, any car will get the job done.
Clothing: This city is windy and foggy, so even if visit during summer, bring a light jacket, a scarf and beanie. It gets especially cold if you want to catch the sunrise, watch the sunset or go whale watching. A rain jacket and windbreaker are absolute musts. And don’t forget your sturdy hiking shoes.
eSIM: If you’re coming from outside Canada, you’ll need a mobile data to access maps, check menus, make bookings and monitor the weather. Holafly is the eSIM I use because it offers unlimited data, works in over 160 countries, and it’s super easy to install. Use my code ARIADNATRAVELER for a 5% discount.
To see more photos and videos from this trip, don’t forget to follow me on Instagram @ariadnatraveler.
I really hope this guide helps you plan your next trip to St. Johns. It’s not the easiest destination to reach, and depending on where you’re coming from, it can also be a bit expensive, but I truly believe this place deserves a spot on your bucket list. Thanks for reading, and see you soon, new adventures to come!
